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flooring screw up err glued down

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Mr_Yan

Guest
Man I shot my self in the foot when I glued down some sub floor a few years ago.

My house is 80 to 90 years old and has 3/8" (yes 3/8") thick oak through most of it. The entry way was in bad shape and the floor had to be pulled. I then put 7/16" OSB over the 1x6 sub floor and fastened it with liquid nails adhesive and screws. I'll tell you there is no deflection in that floor.

Today I bought concrete backer for tile as I forgot that I had used adhesive. Now the backer will go back to the store. I think I will just thin set with a membrane and then tile over the OSB.

Why did I use adhesive on the OSB????:banghead:
 
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ErnieCopp

Guest
Yan,
I think for an entryway, i like way you are doing it now better than with the backer board. That adhesive will really stablilize both layers of the underfloor, and make the whole stronger than the parts.. The membrane and tile should keep it dry, so it sounds good to me. Backer board is only really needed where there is lots of water, like the bathrooms, or Sinks. I really like to lay tile and have laid some nearly every place i have lived.

Ernie
 

Lost in mn

Well-Known Member
Messages
98
Planting Zone
3
Agreed with the proper membrane it should be just fine. I would run some 40 grit sandpaper over the OSB first to even out any high and low spots then maybe even a thin coat of thin set, then the membrane, then tile.
 
M

Mr_Yan

Guest
Well we decided to rip out the OSB and put down traditional oak floor. Part of the decision was the stack-up of OSB, backer / membrane, mortar, and tile would prohibit the door from opening.

I now have the OSB all torn out and the floor is ready for the oak to go down. With this project I have lost a lot of respect for liquid nails adhesive. More often than not the beads of adhesive broke before the OSB split and splintered. Ripping the OSB out, scraping the splintered OSB and heavy beads of adhesive, and grinding off the broken screws took about 2 hours of work and 2 cups of coffee.

Yet to do this weekend to finish this project:
  • shoot in the flooring
  • sand it flat
  • vacuum the floor
  • apply finish
It's only taken me 6 years to get to this point (counting from when I ripped out the original floor).
 
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ErnieCopp

Guest
Yan,
You will be a Master of All Trades by the time you finish all of your projects. That is the best way to learn. Just jump in and do it.

Ernie
 

Lost in mn

Well-Known Member
Messages
98
Planting Zone
3
If you ever need glue again try PL 2000 Sub Floor adhesive. I used that stuff once to glue carpet on boat seats. 30 years later the carpet is still stuck solid even thought it's sat outside uncovered for 20 of those years.
 
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Mr_Yan

Guest
This is part of the last 5% to finish the full gut and rehab of this 80+ year old arts and crafts bungalow. This house is one of the classic cookie cutter homes from the 1920s - buy the kit and build it your self type thing. Back at that time this city was full of furniture, hardware, and tool makers and the companies would sell the kits cheaply to the employees.

Anyway


This is after pulling out the OSB but before chipping out the remnants still held in with glue.


My wife made me take a break to eat and let the crumb crunchers nap. I need to go buy more nails anyway.

The floor installs faster and easier when you're awake. When I installed this same flooring in my kitchen it was at the end of a week of 18+ hour working days where we gutted and re-did the room. Anyway my father-in-law and I started the floor at about 7 pm. FIL got tired and left for the night and my brother and I finished installing the floor around 4:30 am. My wife was staying in a hotel with her parents during this and my text to her at 4:35 was along the lines of "Going to sleep. Bring coffee when you come back in the AM"
 
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Mr_Yan

Guest

I had some help finishing this project


This is the threshold where I stepped down from the 3/4" new oak to the 5/16 to 1/4" original floor. That is a piece of the flooring milled to have a 1/4" bullnose knockoff with the bottom rabbeted out to sit over the original floor.


I also made the threshold for my kitchen into the dining room. It's only been a raw edge and an exposed strip of sub floor for 30 months.

The last four pieces of flooring (two thresholds and the two ripped scab pieces on either side of the door) required ten trips up and down stairs to fit and used most of the tools in my shop.

Last night I sanded the floor and today I applied the first coat of poly. For this floor I am trying an oil-modified water based Minwax poly. Two or three more coats of poly and we should be good to go.
 
M

Mr_Yan

Guest
Two coats down. The lighting is terrible but you get the idea:

 
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ErnieCopp

Guest
Yan,
That is a very nice job. Congratulations..

Ernie
 
M

Mr_Yan

Guest
Thanks Ernie.

Things have been moving but slowly. I try to help with the kids when at home and do my house work when the kids are asleep but the nail guns and saws make working during nap hard.



Anyway my update:

I have two coats of poly on the floor. The trim, except the shoe, is up and the first coat is on the trim. I have two coats on the shoe molding and need to cut it to size and shoot it in. Once the shoe is shot in and caulked I'll second coat the molding and move to the ceiling then on to the walls. Once I've finished with the wall paint I'll feel safe to return to the floor for the final two coats of poly.

One of the things that bugs me is I should caulk the shoe to the base before painting it. But this means I have to open a new tube of caulk for a thin bead 15 feet long. DAP painters caulk doesn't seem to last more than a few days once you've opened the tube then taped it back closed. Or I can start another whole project and work on the missing trim in the bath room.
 
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ErnieCopp

Guest
Yan, try closing your caulking tubes with a wood screw big enough to fit real tight. The threads will pull the plug out after you unscrew it part way.

Ernie
 
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